What To Do in Bohol

from the travel blogs of Liliram, a dear friend and supporter of OUR MELTING POT. photo credits - Joel Riola

My niece Suzette teased me about my blogging only about my foreign travels, never on my local trips. Gave that a thought, and decided I should have really done some. Not so much for myself, but more for those who may wish to check out some of our local sites. Frankly, I enjoyed these trips around our islands just as much as I enjoyed my foreign travels. Perhaps I only felt compelled to write about my travel adventures when they last longer than 4 nights, never for shorter adventures. But I am changing all that now. So here goes...........I actually meant to bring my other niece Mayette for this trip, but she's busy. So, Suzette got lucky. Started our adventure with a mid-morning flight via Philippine Air Lines from Manila to Tagbilaran, Bohol. An uneventful flight of an hour and a half or so. The small Tagbilaran airport certainly demands improvement since the province attracted more tourists to check out the Chocolate Hills, tarsiers, Baclayon Church, a few colonial houses, and the beaches of Panglao. Small and seemingly chaotic, we actually did not have any problem retrieving our bags and driving out of the small airport for our next destination - Panglao Island Nature Hotel.

Our resort hotel welcomed us with a refreshing juice from squeezed dalandan (local oranges) and a couple of guitar-strumming singers. As soon as we checked in, we glimpsed a very beautiful beach beyond the swimming pools surrounding the reception hut/lounge. The infinity pool promised to provide a relaxing afternoon under the sun. It was exciting to find a small man-made island just beyond the beach area where some dinners are served. We were told we will enjoy one of our dinners in that tiny island.

After a walk around the resort, we headed for one of the 3 restaurants in the resort. We strongly recommend Bohol's famous yam soup. It has the texture of a pumpkin soup, but this local version won't disappoint. My first time to try it. They don't serve this back in Manila. Yummy yam! The other dishes served are fairly standard hotel food. I will not rave about it. You'd have your standard barbecue, breaded fish, green salad, etc. It fills up , but won't sate, if you know what I mean.


We spent the next day the best way any tourist can. Started off the day with breakfast in Bohol Bee Farm. We were served organic Chef's salad, homemade jams and marmalades, pates and cheese spread, home-baked pumpkin bread and other pastries. They even have their own coffee made from corn! Eggs, local sausages called longganizas, meat loaf, various fruits, etc. After that hearty breakfast, a guide gave us a short tour cum lecture on how bees make honey, what plants went to our breakfast salad, the different flowers and plants around the area. There was even a small store where one can buy their homemade jams , cheese spreads, honey, local biscuits, and native bags. I got a couple of bags.

From the Bee Farm, we drove towards Baclayon Church and Museum. I have seen this church some years back when the province has yet to make a mark on the tourism map. There have been some improvements, but my heart tells me the local government can do a lot more. Tourism in the area has vastly improved. Perhaps ten fold if not more. It's easy to guess that. My niece Suzette is making her first visit and I can tell she is impressed with our colonial history. Having grown up in the city, she has had not much exposure to vestiges of our Spanish heritage. The churches she goes to are all of modern architecture, unless she goes to Intramuros or a few other selected churches whenever she's invited to weddings. But our everyday church is a modern church. Baclayon gives us a glimpse of how it was in olden times. It helped that our guide prepared us by citing the story of the Spanish Expedition led by Miguel Lopez de Legazpi and Datu Sikatuna's Blood Compact in the island of Bohol.

Now, let me explain a few things here. Datu Sikatuna is a local chieftain in Bohol. The Blood Compact is a ritual where both leaders seal their friendship by shedding a few drops of blood from their arms (i suppose they have to make neat cuts first...) , mix in some wine, and drink them. Sounds very primitive to me, but that is what history books tell us. Mind you, that "friendship" allowed the Spaniards to overstay by a good 400 years. Must be one effective Treaty of Friendship if you ask me.

Back to Baclayon Church and Museum. This ancient church claims to be the oldest church in the whole of the Philippines. Some may argue and say that the oldest church is San Agustin Church in Intramuros. Well, that is the oldest STONE church in the country. From the looks of it, there are still some renovations going on within the church compound. Let us hope the complex will have more improvements by my next visit.

From the Church, we had a

short drive to the Loboc Museum which sits right by the Loboc River, exactly where the terminal is for the Loboc River Cruise. The wide wide seaworthy vessel looks more like a big nipa hut with bamboo flooring floating down this green river. Lunch was served while cruising Loboc River, complete with a singing duo who would gladly oblige guests with their favorite songs.

Again, I did not find the food all that impressive but I like the idea of having lunch while river cruising. Along the river, one gets a glimpse of provincial life. Native huts, children playing and swimming by the river edge, wooden outposts that serve as hangouts for idle men and women enjoying a good chat. The whole concept is just so relaxing. At river's end, there was even a band of young girls singing kundimans (local songs of old) to the delight of foreign tourists. Their songs brought cheer to our hearts.

Having enjoyed a Loboc River Cruise relaxing cruise down the river , we then proceeded to check out the tarsiers. Big eyed mini-monkeys with eyes bigger than their brains. The smallest monkey in the world is an attraction here in Bohol. Many foreign and local tourists took snapshots of these cuties who must have been stressed out with all those flash photography (despite the signage) and noisy crowd. Suzette had a couple of shots to show off to her son and daughter. From here, we then trooped to the Chocolate Hills.

We were told that there are better views of the hills in a farther town in Carmen, Bohol. Tired that we were, we settled for the nearest viewpoint. This view though can be had only after climbing a hundred steps . But the vista did not disappoint. Rolling down the landscape were the Chocolate Hills, now not so chocolate-ty but more greenish. I recall having climbed the same steps the last time I visited Bohol. Was it age creeping up on me, or did they actually add more steps to the stairs? Kidding aside, it was not a steep and long climb. Very manageable, really.

The following morning could have been another adventure but the weather did not cooperate. Our dolphin watching boat adventure was cancelled at the last minute because of stormy weather. Balicasag island promised a lot, but I guess we can't have it all. We spent the whole day in the resort. My niece checked out some of the caves around with newfound friends. By nightfall, we had a simple dinner before deciding to seek adventure. This time, we ventured out for yet another boat ride along Loboc river to check out the fireflies! We were along the river for a good hour, no fireflies. Just mosquitoes, and so much darkness. We almost gave up by the time the fireflies decided to make an appearance. So beautiful. One tree looked like a lighted Christmas tree in mid-summer. How magical! And that's the second time I used that word here.

The following day is the day we take our flight back to Manila. There was enough time to hear mass at the
nearby Dauis Church, another ancient church. After mass, we had a chance to check out the plaza behind the church. Then back to Panglao Island Nature Resort to pack our bags and get ready for our flight. It was a weekend well spent.

Backpacking in the Philippines: Practical Tips

Accommodations

Before 2009, finding a cheap accommodation in Manila or in the Philippines for that matter was limited to renting rooms for the night. Your options were actually confined to finding budget hotels in your preferred tourist destination, especially when you are taking a pit stop in Manila.

But backpackers or cheap accommodation in Manila and in key cities or tourist spots in the country has become more accessible now. Even if you wish to hit the beach, some cottages in Boracay, for instance, cater to tourists who are comfortable with staying in a dormitory with other transient individuals. In the metropolis, Malate dominates the scene as there are probably more than 5 hostel owners offering bed and breakfast accommodation for itinerant beings. Makati City, which is the entertainment and financial capital of Metro Manila, already boasts of a new and excellent backpacking joint called OUR MELTING POT. Indeed, these are a welcome development for many because even traditional cheap accommodations in the country can get fairly high come summer season -- March to June. Whereas in the case of hostels, prices are relatively stable.

Currencies

Another good thing about traveling to the Philippines is the purchasing power of foreign-dominated notes. Your dollar or Brit pound or Euro or Yen can go a long LONG way.


The average conversions (depending on forex rates) are like:
• 1 US Dollar - PhP (Philippine Peso): PhP 48-50
• 1 Brit Pound - PhP: PhP 90+
• 1 Euro - PhP: PhP 65+


So for like, a thousand dollars, that's equivalent to about 48,000+ pesos (or Php 90,000+ if you use Brit pounds) can cover everything: from food to transports, to lodging and night life and souvenirs.


Language

Language barrier is not a problem, especially if you know English. The country's long history of colonization produced modern-day Filipinos who are very comfortable with the English language. (The native language is also rich in Spanish-derived words.) You would be surprised that even the seemingly uneducated beggars on the street can converse with you in English. For the more adventurous ones, learning the language of the local which is Filipino, and the primary dialects Tagalog and Visaya may come in handy when huggling for the best deals in the course of your travel. It can be pretty difficult at first to learn. But if you're a veteran backpacker, you'll get the hang of it in a little time. Buying a phrasebook helps but it's very rare to find one about the Philippines.

Transportation

Local transportation (that is, the obscure towns near the good sites and not the big cosmopolitan cities like Manila and Cebu) is cheap. For prices that range from 5 to 20 pesos, you can travel by tricycle (the Philippine version of Bangkok's 'tuk-tuk'), jeepney, or any local transport modes. Buses are cheap as well while taxis command relatively higher prices depending on their routes. Traveling from any of the major islands would mean taking an extra flight which can cost a bit for foreign tourists if you don't book your trip early. Two weeks planning, however, would help you secure the cheapest deal from Philippine Airlines' econolight fares. For those who prefer another mode of transporation apart from taking commercial planes, the ferry (one trusted carrier is Superferry) can also be an enjoyable experience. However, a tight schedule should propel a traveler to take domestic flights to be able to maximize your time in the country.

Food

As for food, the dishes are amazingly numerous and varied. Anywhere you go, there will always be a different culinary delight to please your palate. Few foreign travelers would be able to escape the challenge posed by your local friend or acquaintance in relation to eating the renowned "aborted duckling" or "balut". It's actually duck egg with a nearly formed embryo of a duckling inside. Pinoys usually laugh when tourists try it and then hurl at the sight of what they're about to eat. Even then, it's a culinary experience you wouldn't want to pass up, no matter how icky it looks! It's mostly sold on the streets where available, along with other local delicacies (all of which are within your prescribed budget). Apart from that, the rest of the Philippine cuisine is deliciously whacked! If you have a sweet tooth, definitely you will have a feast. One Caucasian friend remarked that she's not eaten as much sweets in her 30 years of existence as she did staying in the Philippines for nearly a week. The native delicacies are irresistible. Even if you have excellent self-control, it would be difficult to say no to local friends offering you all sorts of stuff, while at the same time demonstrating to you that the Filipino warmth is simply unbeatable in any part of the world.


Travel Advice

Common sense will also tell you that any streetwise backpacker will never show BLING. Dress down, chances are you'll fit in quite nicely. Also, it's always a big help if you smile most of the time. Filipinos are really true to form: hospitable and friendly. And then there are the rip-off artists and travel scams. Be cautious at the same time. Local customs such as a simple smile and thank you will help a lot.

Finally, the best thing to do when you come here would be to drink it all in. The sights are amazing and everything is just great. But if you are a tourist on a budget, everything starts with finding a cheap accommodation in manila.


(paraphrased and edited version of the post of J. Brent Esarza, 20 Feb 2005)